One of those sinking feelings in the pit of your stomach will threaten to overwhelm you when you discover that the basement has a problem with water damage. It could be because of a long-undiscovered leak which could have been causing untold damage for a long time, or it could be caused by the creation of an environment that is overly humid.
In either situation you could find yourself sitting on foundations that have become structurally dangerous or there could be mold or other fungus growth taking place, breeding a potential health risk.
The basement may be damp because of moisture soaking through the foundation, it doesn’t necessarily have to have come from a leaking pipe.
The first step to repairing any water damage in the basement is to identify exactly what it is that’s causing the moisture in the first place. A leaking pipe will be the easiest contributor to identify and fix. Not so easy will be identifying that the daily activities of you and your family are causing a build up of humidity which is then collecting below the floor. The indicator that this is happening could be a mysterious recurring growth of mold or mildew.
It may be necessary to reassess how the water runs in the garden directly outside the basement. If the water is not running off away from the house it is possible that it is soaking into the ground and on into the basement through the walls. In this case it will be necessary to put in additional external drainage to move the water away from the house.
Lowering Humidity In the House
There are a number of ways to fix the humidity in your basement. Firstly, install ventilation fans in your kitchen and bathroom if they don’t already have them. These two rooms are the most humid of any other room in the house.
If ventilation is installed already, ensure it is directing the air out of the house and that it hasn’t become blocked. If you have a clothes dryer it should be vented to the outside of the house.
A poorly operating air conditioning system can fail to remove humidity which may be a contributing factor to a build up in the basement. Call a contractor to check your system to confirm it is operating properly.
If the basement becomes damp from humidity in the warmer months it may be necessary to have a dehumidifier running in the basement. It’s best to run the dehumidifier in a closed room to stop humid air from outside the house from entering the basement.
Water Damage From A Leaking Pipe
If the water damage is noticeable on the ceiling of the basement or on the walls directly below a bathroom it may indicate that the water pipes have been damaged. In this case your best course of action is to call out a plumber.
Water damage that consists of considerable mold growth can best be solved by calling a professional who specializes in mold remediation.
Naturally, the most certain way to solve a problem with water in the basement is to call out a reputable water damage restoration expert. Water restoration professionals are equipped to locate the cause of any moisture as well as being experienced in repairing damaged walls or ceilings and preventing water damage in the future.
Cleaning Mold From the Ceiling
Mold thrives in any moist, warm environment with rooms such as bathrooms or kitchens a perfect place for it to grow and spread quickly. It is not only unsightly but can become a health risk as it spreads by releasing spores and these spores can affect breathing. Mold will grow on any organic material and, given the right conditions will do just as well on non-organic material.
A danger for your home when you’ve got mold growing in one or many rooms is that it actually consumes the object that it is living on and can release an acid that will permanently mark the wall or ceiling. Whether your ceiling is made from ceiling tiles, sheet rock or wood, mold is just as likely to begin growing with rooms that are often moist, such as the bathroom, the most susceptible.
Black mold is the most common type of mold that will grow on the ceiling and it can be identified as black spots of varying sizes dotting the ceiling in clusters.
Cleaning a Mold Damaged Ceiling
It is important to appreciate the danger mold poses to your health, so before you start cleaning the mold from the ceiling, ensure you have taken necessary safety precautions and have put on gloves, goggles and a face mask.
In the room you will be cleaning, close off any accesses to other parts of the house such as doors or vents. Open the window to allow the room to dry out.
An initial wash of the ceiling with a mild detergent and warm water will start the cleaning process. A quarter of a cup of bleach mixed with a quart of water can be used to follow the clean up and, if necessary, can be repeated after allowing the first application has dried. After the second application the ceiling should be allowed to dry out completely.
There are alternative products available to the bleach solution mentioned above that will remove the topical mold and also kill the remaining spores. It might be worth seeking out one of these products to be comfortable that you have thoroughly cleaned the room.
To safeguard against the return of mold in the room, all water leaks should be repaired so the environment isn’t constantly moist. If there are no leaks, it might simply be necessary to introduce more ventilation into the room. Finally, a regular clean of the bathroom to remove or kill and stray mold spores should be carried out regularly.
Make sure that if you are going to be painting the ceiling you have completely removed the mold. Painting over mold will not solve the problem and the mold will simply return in full force. It is possible to buy paint with mold prevention chemicals already mixed into it. I have actually painted such a product on the ceiling of my bathroom and have never had a problem with mold in that room.
This mold damage clean up advice assumes that the mold damage is not too extensive and that you can tackle the job yourself. If, however, the mold damage has become completely out of control, it may be necessary to call in a professional who specializes in this kind of damage clean up.
Other mold damage articles:
Prevent Mold From Taking Hold In the Home
Restoring the Home From Mold Damage
Repair Mold Damage In Books
Mold Detection and Treatment of Clothes
A danger for your home when you’ve got mold growing in one or many rooms is that it actually consumes the object that it is living on and can release an acid that will permanently mark the wall or ceiling. Whether your ceiling is made from ceiling tiles, sheet rock or wood, mold is just as likely to begin growing with rooms that are often moist, such as the bathroom, the most susceptible.
Black mold is the most common type of mold that will grow on the ceiling and it can be identified as black spots of varying sizes dotting the ceiling in clusters.
Cleaning a Mold Damaged Ceiling
It is important to appreciate the danger mold poses to your health, so before you start cleaning the mold from the ceiling, ensure you have taken necessary safety precautions and have put on gloves, goggles and a face mask.
In the room you will be cleaning, close off any accesses to other parts of the house such as doors or vents. Open the window to allow the room to dry out.
An initial wash of the ceiling with a mild detergent and warm water will start the cleaning process. A quarter of a cup of bleach mixed with a quart of water can be used to follow the clean up and, if necessary, can be repeated after allowing the first application has dried. After the second application the ceiling should be allowed to dry out completely.
There are alternative products available to the bleach solution mentioned above that will remove the topical mold and also kill the remaining spores. It might be worth seeking out one of these products to be comfortable that you have thoroughly cleaned the room.
To safeguard against the return of mold in the room, all water leaks should be repaired so the environment isn’t constantly moist. If there are no leaks, it might simply be necessary to introduce more ventilation into the room. Finally, a regular clean of the bathroom to remove or kill and stray mold spores should be carried out regularly.
Make sure that if you are going to be painting the ceiling you have completely removed the mold. Painting over mold will not solve the problem and the mold will simply return in full force. It is possible to buy paint with mold prevention chemicals already mixed into it. I have actually painted such a product on the ceiling of my bathroom and have never had a problem with mold in that room.
This mold damage clean up advice assumes that the mold damage is not too extensive and that you can tackle the job yourself. If, however, the mold damage has become completely out of control, it may be necessary to call in a professional who specializes in this kind of damage clean up.
Other mold damage articles:
Prevent Mold From Taking Hold In the Home
Restoring the Home From Mold Damage
Repair Mold Damage In Books
Mold Detection and Treatment of Clothes
Mold Detection and Treatment of Clothes
Mold is the common term used to describe a downy or furry growth on the surface or organic matter, caused by fungi, especially in the presence of dampness and decay. These microorganisms feed on living organisms or dead organic matter.
In order to prevent the growth or spread of mold growth you have to deny the spores the moisture content they need to germinate.
The mold microorganisms need organic materials for the nutrients to grow and so, any material that was once living, including wood, paper, clothes such as cotton, linen and leather are susceptible. It doesn’t really stop there, either. Inorganic materials such as some plastics can also come under attack from fungal growth.
You need to get rid of mold because it will permanently damage the materials upon which it is growing. It will stain textiles as well as structurally weaken them, paper will be stained with spots known in the industry as “foxing” and leather will be permanently marked. Inorganic materials can be etched by organic acids produced by the fungus as a by-product of their presence.
Removing Mold From Your Clothes
The ideal scenario is that you catch the onset of mold growth early on in its life. As soon as that moldy smell becomes noticeable from the cupboard it is essential to pull all the clothes out and closely examine them for signs of mold. Remember, mold will cause deterioration in the material that it is growing on so the longer you leave it, the more chance your clothes will not be salvageable.
When the mold has been identified there are some steps you can take to remove both the mold and the mold smell.
Firstly, when you deal with mold you should use gloves and a protective mask or goggles. Take the clothes outside and then brush the loose mold growth off each item. When transporting the affected clothes you should be careful not to disturb the mold because you don’t want to spread mold spores through the house.
After the clothes have been brushed off, leave them in the sun to dry so that the heat from the sun will kill any remaining mold that is still in the clothes.
It may be necessary to wash the affected areas in a weak bleach solution although if you’re dealing with colored clothing you may want to substitute the bleach for a lemon juice and salt combination. After the clothes have been given a thorough clean with these disinfectants, they should be laundered as you would normally do and then put out to dry in the sun. Ensure that the drying process is completed to avoid a regrowth of mold.
A fungicide spray can be used on the clothes to remove any trace mold odor that may persist. Care must be taken with respect to the different materials that you are trying to remove the mold from. Materials such as silk, nylon and wool can be damaged when applied with chlorine bleach.
A product such as Moldergent, which is a 100% organic mold cleaning detergent, can be used in the laundering process. This type of product has been specially formulated to remove mold and mildew from clothes.
As mentioned earlier in the article, at the first sign that the clothes in your wardrobe have been affected start the mold restoration process immediately. The process is not too burdensome and the longer you delay cleaning and drying your clothes the more chance that they will be ruined beyond repair.
In order to prevent the growth or spread of mold growth you have to deny the spores the moisture content they need to germinate.
The mold microorganisms need organic materials for the nutrients to grow and so, any material that was once living, including wood, paper, clothes such as cotton, linen and leather are susceptible. It doesn’t really stop there, either. Inorganic materials such as some plastics can also come under attack from fungal growth.
You need to get rid of mold because it will permanently damage the materials upon which it is growing. It will stain textiles as well as structurally weaken them, paper will be stained with spots known in the industry as “foxing” and leather will be permanently marked. Inorganic materials can be etched by organic acids produced by the fungus as a by-product of their presence.
Removing Mold From Your Clothes
The ideal scenario is that you catch the onset of mold growth early on in its life. As soon as that moldy smell becomes noticeable from the cupboard it is essential to pull all the clothes out and closely examine them for signs of mold. Remember, mold will cause deterioration in the material that it is growing on so the longer you leave it, the more chance your clothes will not be salvageable.
When the mold has been identified there are some steps you can take to remove both the mold and the mold smell.
Firstly, when you deal with mold you should use gloves and a protective mask or goggles. Take the clothes outside and then brush the loose mold growth off each item. When transporting the affected clothes you should be careful not to disturb the mold because you don’t want to spread mold spores through the house.
After the clothes have been brushed off, leave them in the sun to dry so that the heat from the sun will kill any remaining mold that is still in the clothes.
It may be necessary to wash the affected areas in a weak bleach solution although if you’re dealing with colored clothing you may want to substitute the bleach for a lemon juice and salt combination. After the clothes have been given a thorough clean with these disinfectants, they should be laundered as you would normally do and then put out to dry in the sun. Ensure that the drying process is completed to avoid a regrowth of mold.
A fungicide spray can be used on the clothes to remove any trace mold odor that may persist. Care must be taken with respect to the different materials that you are trying to remove the mold from. Materials such as silk, nylon and wool can be damaged when applied with chlorine bleach.
A product such as Moldergent, which is a 100% organic mold cleaning detergent, can be used in the laundering process. This type of product has been specially formulated to remove mold and mildew from clothes.
As mentioned earlier in the article, at the first sign that the clothes in your wardrobe have been affected start the mold restoration process immediately. The process is not too burdensome and the longer you delay cleaning and drying your clothes the more chance that they will be ruined beyond repair.
Repair Mold Damage In Books
If you’ve suffered water damage and one of the items are your books, there are some necessary steps that you will have to take if you want to prevent mold from growing on them.
You first have to work out which books have suffered little enough damage to be saved. For those books that are completely ruined by water, or which are not valuable enough to save, discard them immediately. For those books that contain valuable information that you think you will want at a later date, photocopy the pages and then discard the originals. For those books that you will want to save, freeze the books. Mold cannot grow when it has been frozen.
Air-drying the books may be an option, but do so following these stops:
Repair Mold Damaged Books
If you have not moved quickly enough to prevent mold damage in the first place, or if the books have been stored in a damp environment and have become mold damaged over time, there are some steps available to you to perform mold damage restoration.
Mold damage on the cover or spine of the book can be addressed by removing the cover of the book and retaining the pages within. If the mold is heavy but has only affected the dustjacket then your restoration may simply be a matter of removing the jacket and discarding it. You will have to do a thorough inspection of the inner pages of the book to ensure that the pages have not also become mold damaged. If you hate the thought of coverless books in your bookshelves, you may have to decide on getting the books professionally rebound.
If the mold damage on the cover is only light, you will have to remove the mold by first brushing the mold from the cover. You will then be required to sponge the cover down with a water, bleach and detergent mix. The idea is to destroy the mold spores that may be left behind, so after washing down the cover, leave the book out in the sun to completely dry.
The more difficult mold restoration of books comes when dealing with mold on the inside pages of the book. It is very likely that books with mold damage on the pages will not be salvageable but there are some steps to take to try.
Firstly, brush off any visible mold. Follow this up with a light sponge with the water, bleach and detergent mixture over the contaminated area remaining very careful not to wet the pages too much. Leave the washed books out in the sun, pages open, so that they might dry out completely. This process should be completed page by page as necessary.
Whether or not you want to tackle this kind of mold damage restoration will depend on how valuable the books that are damaged are and how badly you need the content contained within.
As with all mold repair work you should be aware of the safety issues involved and make sure you have equipped yourself with the proper personal protection equipment.
You first have to work out which books have suffered little enough damage to be saved. For those books that are completely ruined by water, or which are not valuable enough to save, discard them immediately. For those books that contain valuable information that you think you will want at a later date, photocopy the pages and then discard the originals. For those books that you will want to save, freeze the books. Mold cannot grow when it has been frozen.
Air-drying the books may be an option, but do so following these stops:
- Fan books open and stand on top or bottom edge; never stand them on the front edge.
- Stand books on driest edge first to provide support. As the book dries turn it upside-down to the opposite edge every few hours.
Place a sheet of waxed paper larger than the pages between the front and back cover and adjacent page before standing on edges. Replace the interleaving as it becomes saturated.
When the book is no longer wet, but still cool to the touch, close and place on a solid surface with a slight weight to keep distortion to a minimum. Check frequently to ensure that no mold is growing.
Repair Mold Damaged Books
If you have not moved quickly enough to prevent mold damage in the first place, or if the books have been stored in a damp environment and have become mold damaged over time, there are some steps available to you to perform mold damage restoration.Mold damage on the cover or spine of the book can be addressed by removing the cover of the book and retaining the pages within. If the mold is heavy but has only affected the dustjacket then your restoration may simply be a matter of removing the jacket and discarding it. You will have to do a thorough inspection of the inner pages of the book to ensure that the pages have not also become mold damaged. If you hate the thought of coverless books in your bookshelves, you may have to decide on getting the books professionally rebound.
If the mold damage on the cover is only light, you will have to remove the mold by first brushing the mold from the cover. You will then be required to sponge the cover down with a water, bleach and detergent mix. The idea is to destroy the mold spores that may be left behind, so after washing down the cover, leave the book out in the sun to completely dry.
The more difficult mold restoration of books comes when dealing with mold on the inside pages of the book. It is very likely that books with mold damage on the pages will not be salvageable but there are some steps to take to try.
Firstly, brush off any visible mold. Follow this up with a light sponge with the water, bleach and detergent mixture over the contaminated area remaining very careful not to wet the pages too much. Leave the washed books out in the sun, pages open, so that they might dry out completely. This process should be completed page by page as necessary.
Whether or not you want to tackle this kind of mold damage restoration will depend on how valuable the books that are damaged are and how badly you need the content contained within.
As with all mold repair work you should be aware of the safety issues involved and make sure you have equipped yourself with the proper personal protection equipment.
Restoring the Home From Mold Damage
When performing a water restoration one of the biggest dangers is preventing mold. However, sometimes one of the first indicators that you've even got a water damage problem is the appearance of mold growth. This leaves you with the problem of attempting to clean up the mold. Here are some safety tips with suggestions on the personal protective equipment you should wear. The primary function of personal protective equipment (PPE) is to limit mold exposure.
If a remediation job disturbs mold, and mold spores then become airborne, there will be an increase in the risk of respiratory exposure. Actions likely to stir up mold include breaking moldy porous materials such as wallboard, using invasive procedures to examine or remediate mold growth in wall cavities, stripping or peeling wallpaper to remove it, and using fans to dry items.
Gloves
Gloves protect the skin from contact with mold. They also protect the skin from potentially irritating cleaning solutions. Long gloves that extend to the middle of the forearm are recommended.
The material from which gloves are made should be suited to the type of materials being handled. If you choose to use a biocide, such as chlorine bleach, or a strong cleaning solution, gloves should be made from natural rubber, neoprene, nitrile, polyurethane, or polyvinylchloride (PVC). If a mild detergent is being used, ordinary household rubber gloves are suitable. The routine use of biocides is not recommended.
Goggles
Properly fitted goggles or full-face respirators provide eye protection. Goggles must be designed to keep out dust and small particles. Safety glasses or goggles that have open vent holes are not suitable and won't provide you with complete protection for the job.
Respirators
Respirators protect remediation workers from inhaling airborne mold, mold spores, and dust. Three types of respiratory protection are described: minimum, limited, and full. Only respirators approved by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) should be worn during mold remediation. These respirators must be used according to any applicable Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) regulations.
You only really need to wear minimal personal protective equipment when cleaning up a small area affected by mold (less than 10 square feet total). Minimum PPE includes gloves, goggles/eye protection and an N-95 respirator. An N-95 respirator covers the nose and mouth, filters out 95 percent of airborne particulates, and is available in most hardware stores. It does not provide eye protection.
Limited PPE includes the use of half-face or full-face air purifying respirators (APRs) equipped with P100 filter cartridges. These respirators have inhalation and exhalation valves that filter the air and ensure it is free of mold particles. The P100 filters do not remove vapors or gases, and the half-face APRs do not protect the wearer's eyes. Limited PPE may be warranted when the total surface area affected by mold is between 10 and 100 square feet. Professional judgment should be used to make the final determination about whether to wear limited PPE.
Full PPE includes a full-face, powered air purifying respirator (PAPR). It is recommended when more than 100 square feet of mold is found, which means that there is very likely going to be high levels of airborne dust or mold spores present, or when intense or long-term exposures are expected. A powered air purifying respirator uses a blower to force air through a P100 filter. The filtered air is supplied to a mask that covers the wearer's face or a hood that covers the entire head. Positive pressure within the hood prevents unfiltered air from entering through penetrations or gaps. Individuals must be trained to use their respirators before they begin remediation.
Disposable clothing is recommended for medium and large remediation projects. It prevents the transfer and spread of mold to clothing and eliminates skin contact with mold. When limited protection is warranted, disposable paper coveralls can be used. When full protection is required, a body suit of breathable material, such as TYVEK, and mold-impervious disposable head and foot coverings should be used. All gaps, such as those around ankles and wrists, should be sealed. (Many remediators use duct tape to seal clothing.)
If some of the measures specified above appear too daunting a task to tackle yourself, it would be advisable to get in touch with professional water damage contractors who will be well trained in cleaning up this kind of mold damage. Sometimes the most wise course of action is to stand aside and allow those who are best equipped to deal with the problem, especially when your personal safety is at stake.
If a remediation job disturbs mold, and mold spores then become airborne, there will be an increase in the risk of respiratory exposure. Actions likely to stir up mold include breaking moldy porous materials such as wallboard, using invasive procedures to examine or remediate mold growth in wall cavities, stripping or peeling wallpaper to remove it, and using fans to dry items.
Gloves
Gloves protect the skin from contact with mold. They also protect the skin from potentially irritating cleaning solutions. Long gloves that extend to the middle of the forearm are recommended.
The material from which gloves are made should be suited to the type of materials being handled. If you choose to use a biocide, such as chlorine bleach, or a strong cleaning solution, gloves should be made from natural rubber, neoprene, nitrile, polyurethane, or polyvinylchloride (PVC). If a mild detergent is being used, ordinary household rubber gloves are suitable. The routine use of biocides is not recommended.
Goggles
Properly fitted goggles or full-face respirators provide eye protection. Goggles must be designed to keep out dust and small particles. Safety glasses or goggles that have open vent holes are not suitable and won't provide you with complete protection for the job.
Respirators
Respirators protect remediation workers from inhaling airborne mold, mold spores, and dust. Three types of respiratory protection are described: minimum, limited, and full. Only respirators approved by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) should be worn during mold remediation. These respirators must be used according to any applicable Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) regulations.
You only really need to wear minimal personal protective equipment when cleaning up a small area affected by mold (less than 10 square feet total). Minimum PPE includes gloves, goggles/eye protection and an N-95 respirator. An N-95 respirator covers the nose and mouth, filters out 95 percent of airborne particulates, and is available in most hardware stores. It does not provide eye protection.
Limited PPE includes the use of half-face or full-face air purifying respirators (APRs) equipped with P100 filter cartridges. These respirators have inhalation and exhalation valves that filter the air and ensure it is free of mold particles. The P100 filters do not remove vapors or gases, and the half-face APRs do not protect the wearer's eyes. Limited PPE may be warranted when the total surface area affected by mold is between 10 and 100 square feet. Professional judgment should be used to make the final determination about whether to wear limited PPE.
Full PPE includes a full-face, powered air purifying respirator (PAPR). It is recommended when more than 100 square feet of mold is found, which means that there is very likely going to be high levels of airborne dust or mold spores present, or when intense or long-term exposures are expected. A powered air purifying respirator uses a blower to force air through a P100 filter. The filtered air is supplied to a mask that covers the wearer's face or a hood that covers the entire head. Positive pressure within the hood prevents unfiltered air from entering through penetrations or gaps. Individuals must be trained to use their respirators before they begin remediation.
Disposable clothing is recommended for medium and large remediation projects. It prevents the transfer and spread of mold to clothing and eliminates skin contact with mold. When limited protection is warranted, disposable paper coveralls can be used. When full protection is required, a body suit of breathable material, such as TYVEK, and mold-impervious disposable head and foot coverings should be used. All gaps, such as those around ankles and wrists, should be sealed. (Many remediators use duct tape to seal clothing.)
If some of the measures specified above appear too daunting a task to tackle yourself, it would be advisable to get in touch with professional water damage contractors who will be well trained in cleaning up this kind of mold damage. Sometimes the most wise course of action is to stand aside and allow those who are best equipped to deal with the problem, especially when your personal safety is at stake.
Prevent Mold From Taking Hold In the Home
Molds will grow just about anywhere and will grow on virtually any organic substance, as long as moisture and oxygen are present. Species of molds grow on wood, paper, foods, carpet and insulation. When there has been excessive moisture allowed to accumulate in buildings or on building materials, mold growth will often occur, particularly if the moisture problem remains undiscovered or unaddressed. It is impossible to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment. However, mold growth can be controlled indoors by controlling moisture indoors.
Active mold digests the organic materials upon which it grows and can also create permanent stains. It can be hazardous to people with respiratory problems and can cause allergic reactions or irritate the skin.
After flood damage occurs in your home, it is critical to begin the process of taking water restoration steps to prevent any further damage that might be caused by mold growth.
Steps To Take To Prevent Mold From Growing
Begin the process of drying out the room as quickly as possible. Given the ideal conditions, mold will spread and can grow quickly.
Mold prefers high humidity and temperature so lower both the humidity and the temperature. This can be done by opening the windows if the outside humidity is lower than inside. Alternatively turn on the air conditioning and set up dehumidifiers and empty them often.
Remove any objects that are moldy sealing the moldy trash in plastic bags first. Objects you can save should be dried or frozen as soon as possible. Freezing will inactivate mold.
Mold can remain on shelves and in cupboards where valuables were kept so clean these surfaces with a disinfectant such as Lysol. After cleaning, increase the air circulation in the room. Use fans only after moldy objects are removed and all display and storage areas are clean.
These are basic early water damage restoration steps that should be taken as a start to repairing water damage in the home. These early actions can save a lot more ongoing damage down the track. When removing mold from the home you should also consider you own safety and wear appropriate personal protective equipment.
Active mold digests the organic materials upon which it grows and can also create permanent stains. It can be hazardous to people with respiratory problems and can cause allergic reactions or irritate the skin.
After flood damage occurs in your home, it is critical to begin the process of taking water restoration steps to prevent any further damage that might be caused by mold growth.
Steps To Take To Prevent Mold From Growing
Begin the process of drying out the room as quickly as possible. Given the ideal conditions, mold will spread and can grow quickly.
Mold prefers high humidity and temperature so lower both the humidity and the temperature. This can be done by opening the windows if the outside humidity is lower than inside. Alternatively turn on the air conditioning and set up dehumidifiers and empty them often.
Remove any objects that are moldy sealing the moldy trash in plastic bags first. Objects you can save should be dried or frozen as soon as possible. Freezing will inactivate mold.
Mold can remain on shelves and in cupboards where valuables were kept so clean these surfaces with a disinfectant such as Lysol. After cleaning, increase the air circulation in the room. Use fans only after moldy objects are removed and all display and storage areas are clean.
These are basic early water damage restoration steps that should be taken as a start to repairing water damage in the home. These early actions can save a lot more ongoing damage down the track. When removing mold from the home you should also consider you own safety and wear appropriate personal protective equipment.
Safety After Fire Damage
After a fire the dangers to your safety have not necessarily passed with numerous hazards still present in a structure which will have been weakened by the fire. If you have to enter a fire zone, there are a number of precautions that must be taken to avoid while beginning your own fire damage restoration.
Assess The Structural Damage
Before you even think about stepping inside your house you must get a determination that the property is structurally safe to enter. This should be done by the local fire department who will confirm it for you. There may be puddles of water on the floor and ground left over from the extinguishing process. If this is the case, check that the electrical power to the house has been turned off.
On the ground outside the home on your property there may be damaged or fallen power poles or lines and should be kept clear at all times. These electric wires can potentially start a new fire or can be the cause of electrocution. Similarly, damaged power poles may be extremely unstable and ready to fall with at slightest touch.
Even if the building is determined safe by a professional, take care when re-entering the building and carefully inspect the indoor stability.
Food
Food, beverages and medicines that were in the house during the fire will have become affected by the smoke, heat, soot and the water used to extinguish the fire. None of them will be fit for human consumption and should be discarded.
Safety Clothes
Basic safety clothes should be worn to protect you skin and clothes. In some cases it may also be necessary to wear a breathing mask with a particulate filter. Disposable plastic gloves are a good idea if you are going to be touching anything when there is likely to be plenty of toxic residues lying around.
Soot Removal
One of the substances that can get into airways as well as being particularly damaging to furniture and surfaces after a fire is soot residue. If it is left to sit for any length of time it will permanently discolor the surface. This process can start in as little as an hour. It is a good idea to vacuum up as much of the soot that is lying around the house as possible. Make sure you don't actually touch the soot, but hover the nozzle of the vacuum just above it as it sucks.
Secure the Site
Often times after a fire, it may not be easy to lock the house up or seal it against the weather. If you are going to be leaving the home unattended make sure you have protected the site from further damage from the weather, vandals or thieves. You might be able to get help from the fire brigade in securing the premises. Above all, remove anything of value that has survived the fire, particularly if the home has been ruled too unstable to inhabit.
The police are probably going to be aware of the fire but if you are going to leave the house unoccupied they should be notified. There are some heartless people out there and will see an unoccupied home as an easy target.
Often times when performing a fire damage clean up you are going to be faced with the possibility of having to walk on unstable surfaces. There may be piles of debris that will increase the chances of slipping resulting in traumatic injury, puncture wounds or causing the pile to collapse. For this reason extreme caution must be taken when working on a fire damage site and the necessary protective equipment should be used and worn.
The overwhelming urge will be to return to your damaged home as quickly as possible to assess the damage and to start to get your life back into order. Sometimes it is a wiser and safer move to be patient, wait until the professionals have done their job and have given the all clear.
Assess The Structural Damage
Before you even think about stepping inside your house you must get a determination that the property is structurally safe to enter. This should be done by the local fire department who will confirm it for you. There may be puddles of water on the floor and ground left over from the extinguishing process. If this is the case, check that the electrical power to the house has been turned off.
On the ground outside the home on your property there may be damaged or fallen power poles or lines and should be kept clear at all times. These electric wires can potentially start a new fire or can be the cause of electrocution. Similarly, damaged power poles may be extremely unstable and ready to fall with at slightest touch.
Even if the building is determined safe by a professional, take care when re-entering the building and carefully inspect the indoor stability.
Food
Food, beverages and medicines that were in the house during the fire will have become affected by the smoke, heat, soot and the water used to extinguish the fire. None of them will be fit for human consumption and should be discarded.
Safety Clothes
Basic safety clothes should be worn to protect you skin and clothes. In some cases it may also be necessary to wear a breathing mask with a particulate filter. Disposable plastic gloves are a good idea if you are going to be touching anything when there is likely to be plenty of toxic residues lying around.
Soot Removal
One of the substances that can get into airways as well as being particularly damaging to furniture and surfaces after a fire is soot residue. If it is left to sit for any length of time it will permanently discolor the surface. This process can start in as little as an hour. It is a good idea to vacuum up as much of the soot that is lying around the house as possible. Make sure you don't actually touch the soot, but hover the nozzle of the vacuum just above it as it sucks.
Secure the Site
Often times after a fire, it may not be easy to lock the house up or seal it against the weather. If you are going to be leaving the home unattended make sure you have protected the site from further damage from the weather, vandals or thieves. You might be able to get help from the fire brigade in securing the premises. Above all, remove anything of value that has survived the fire, particularly if the home has been ruled too unstable to inhabit.
The police are probably going to be aware of the fire but if you are going to leave the house unoccupied they should be notified. There are some heartless people out there and will see an unoccupied home as an easy target.
Often times when performing a fire damage clean up you are going to be faced with the possibility of having to walk on unstable surfaces. There may be piles of debris that will increase the chances of slipping resulting in traumatic injury, puncture wounds or causing the pile to collapse. For this reason extreme caution must be taken when working on a fire damage site and the necessary protective equipment should be used and worn.
The overwhelming urge will be to return to your damaged home as quickly as possible to assess the damage and to start to get your life back into order. Sometimes it is a wiser and safer move to be patient, wait until the professionals have done their job and have given the all clear.
Preventing Fire Damage From Forest Fires
One of the biggest tasks facing emergency services at the start of each summer is the work involved in preventing fire damage. One of the biggest causes of fire damage to the forest is lightning strike. As such there is no way to avoid the ignition of a wildfire from lightning strike, but there are preventative measures to limit the damage the resultant fire can cause.
As a resident living in rural or forested areas, there are measures you can take to limit the fire damage that can be caused from a forest fire and to lower the risk that the fire will also claim your home.
Clear flammable materials away from the outside of the house. Create a buffer zone that can be classed as a defensive zone and make it at least 30 feet wide. This zone will give your house a chance to survive a passing fire and will also give fire fighters space to work.
Landscape the garden with fire resistant materials. Putting in a lush lawn or a rock garden will act as a good fuel break. A thatch-roof pergola wouldn’t be such a good idea in areas that are prone to bushfires.
If there are trees surrounding the house within the 30 foot defensive zone should be kept well pruned, particularly branches that may reach towards the house.
If you have a wood-fired fireplace for heating in the winter months make sure the firewood is stored well away from the house and not up against one of the walls.
Gutters and roofs should be kept clear of debris such as leaves or pine needles. A single spark from a bushfire can ignite any rubbish sitting in the gutters.
Ensure that there is always easy access to the house and yard in case emergency vehicles need to pass.
Sometimes there is no way to avoid your house succumbing to fire damage during a raging bushfire. Because of that you should already have a coherent emergency plan for evacuation so that you can leave as quickly as possible if necessary. It’s always possible to restore the damage of a fire, getting caught in the fire yourself can easily result in death.
If fire strikes, you may need to use these Fire Damage Cleanup Tips.
As a resident living in rural or forested areas, there are measures you can take to limit the fire damage that can be caused from a forest fire and to lower the risk that the fire will also claim your home.
Clear flammable materials away from the outside of the house. Create a buffer zone that can be classed as a defensive zone and make it at least 30 feet wide. This zone will give your house a chance to survive a passing fire and will also give fire fighters space to work.
Landscape the garden with fire resistant materials. Putting in a lush lawn or a rock garden will act as a good fuel break. A thatch-roof pergola wouldn’t be such a good idea in areas that are prone to bushfires.
If there are trees surrounding the house within the 30 foot defensive zone should be kept well pruned, particularly branches that may reach towards the house.
If you have a wood-fired fireplace for heating in the winter months make sure the firewood is stored well away from the house and not up against one of the walls.
Gutters and roofs should be kept clear of debris such as leaves or pine needles. A single spark from a bushfire can ignite any rubbish sitting in the gutters.
Ensure that there is always easy access to the house and yard in case emergency vehicles need to pass.
Sometimes there is no way to avoid your house succumbing to fire damage during a raging bushfire. Because of that you should already have a coherent emergency plan for evacuation so that you can leave as quickly as possible if necessary. It’s always possible to restore the damage of a fire, getting caught in the fire yourself can easily result in death.
If fire strikes, you may need to use these Fire Damage Cleanup Tips.
Dealing With Soot Damage Removal
Restoring a home from fire damage is a difficult task and soot damage is one of the hardest problems to have to deal with. However it is a crucial part of the fire damage clean up process and it is necessary to begin the process of soot removal as soon as you can. Soot residue is an oily substance that can ingrain itself into every surface that it comes in contact with. The worst part of trying to clean it up if you don’t know what you’re doing is that rather than removing it, touching the soot will simply push it further into the surface it is sitting on making the clean up even more difficult.
There are some basic tips that you should keep in mind when attempting to tackle any soot damage restoration. The first step to consider is to find a good soot and smoke damage restoration service to come out and provide their expert assistance. A good fire damage contractor can save further heartache later.
There will have to be an initial inspection to decide what pieces are worth restoring and what has sustained little enough damage to be able to be restored. Taking photos of the damage is a necessary step in the process to document for insurance purposes what the state of the home was immediately following the fire.
Soot damage comes from more than simply the blackness of the material that gives everything a dirty appearance. The fine particles of acidic soot and smoke that have fanned out from the fire can penetrate even the tightest windows and doors to coat walls, carpets, curtains and all the home's contents. Damage can be from the insulation in the attic to the inside of a computer.
Soot damage begins its degradation of surfaces almost immediately. Studies have shown that soot begins to discolor materials such as plastics, marble surfaces, appliances and furniture within hours. The longer the soot is allowed to sit in place the more damage that can be done with walls and carpets stained yellow permanently.
Light layers of soot can be vacuumed up by the home owner, making sure not to drag the vacuum nozzle over the surface but to hover it above the soot to suck it up. An oil-based detergent may be used to wipe surfaces although this should be done with great care. Anything more heavily coated with soot should be left for the experts to deal with. While waiting for the experts to arrive, take a further added precautionary step of closing the doors on affected areas to localize the smoke odor as much as possible to a single room.
A thorough fire damage restoration can set you back at least $5,000 with larger jobs costing significantly more. The majority of this cost will be picked up by your insurance company but expect a process that will take a long time before all trace of sight and smell is removed. Some homeowners may also qualify to receive Federal Emergency Management Agency funding so as well as contacting your insurance company you will also need to contact a FEMA representative.
Remember that it won’t just be the surfaces that you can see that will be affected by soot damage. Soot is a fine particulate and it can penetrate into the smallest surfaces before settling. The components inside televisions, computers and sound systems can be coated with the stuff as can air ducts and all of them will have to be professionally restored.
Soot removal is a process that should be carried out quickly, carefully and efficiently. The sooner you get it done the more chance you will save your valuables from permanent damage.
Soot Removal From Brick
You will want to avoid removing soot residue from bricks with a liquid based cleaning agent for as long into the process as possible. This means that you should use dry methods to clean away as much of the soot as you possibly can. As with cleaning other surfaces the first stage should begin with the vacuum cleaner, sucking away as much of the surface soot as possible. After this you can use a wire brush to dislodge any soot that is further embedded into the brick. The brushing should be done in short, quick flicks.
Next, you can use a product that is known as a soot sponge. This is a sponge that has been designed to be used dry. It has been chemically treated so that it absorbs soot and other dirt into its pores. It can be cleaned, once it is completely dirty, by shaving off the outer layer of the sponge revealing a clean surface to continue the soot removal. The sponge is meant to be used by blotting at the soot. Remember, never rub the soot as it will only spread it and make things worse.
When the soot removal has cleaned up all of the loose soot and it is no longer possible to continue effectively with the dry methods, it is time to move to a liquid cleaning method. An effective way to complete the soot removal from bricks is to make up a weak solution of citrus cleaner mixed with water and scrub with a stiff scrubbing brush. The bricks should be scrubbed vigorously to remove all of the residual soot. When this scrubbing is completed the bricks should then be wiped dry with a clean cloth.
All of the soot removal should be done after laying down some newspaper or drop cloths to protect the floor.
There are some basic tips that you should keep in mind when attempting to tackle any soot damage restoration. The first step to consider is to find a good soot and smoke damage restoration service to come out and provide their expert assistance. A good fire damage contractor can save further heartache later.
There will have to be an initial inspection to decide what pieces are worth restoring and what has sustained little enough damage to be able to be restored. Taking photos of the damage is a necessary step in the process to document for insurance purposes what the state of the home was immediately following the fire.
Soot damage comes from more than simply the blackness of the material that gives everything a dirty appearance. The fine particles of acidic soot and smoke that have fanned out from the fire can penetrate even the tightest windows and doors to coat walls, carpets, curtains and all the home's contents. Damage can be from the insulation in the attic to the inside of a computer.
Soot damage begins its degradation of surfaces almost immediately. Studies have shown that soot begins to discolor materials such as plastics, marble surfaces, appliances and furniture within hours. The longer the soot is allowed to sit in place the more damage that can be done with walls and carpets stained yellow permanently.
Light layers of soot can be vacuumed up by the home owner, making sure not to drag the vacuum nozzle over the surface but to hover it above the soot to suck it up. An oil-based detergent may be used to wipe surfaces although this should be done with great care. Anything more heavily coated with soot should be left for the experts to deal with. While waiting for the experts to arrive, take a further added precautionary step of closing the doors on affected areas to localize the smoke odor as much as possible to a single room.
A thorough fire damage restoration can set you back at least $5,000 with larger jobs costing significantly more. The majority of this cost will be picked up by your insurance company but expect a process that will take a long time before all trace of sight and smell is removed. Some homeowners may also qualify to receive Federal Emergency Management Agency funding so as well as contacting your insurance company you will also need to contact a FEMA representative.
Remember that it won’t just be the surfaces that you can see that will be affected by soot damage. Soot is a fine particulate and it can penetrate into the smallest surfaces before settling. The components inside televisions, computers and sound systems can be coated with the stuff as can air ducts and all of them will have to be professionally restored.
Soot removal is a process that should be carried out quickly, carefully and efficiently. The sooner you get it done the more chance you will save your valuables from permanent damage.
Soot Removal From Brick
You will want to avoid removing soot residue from bricks with a liquid based cleaning agent for as long into the process as possible. This means that you should use dry methods to clean away as much of the soot as you possibly can. As with cleaning other surfaces the first stage should begin with the vacuum cleaner, sucking away as much of the surface soot as possible. After this you can use a wire brush to dislodge any soot that is further embedded into the brick. The brushing should be done in short, quick flicks.
Next, you can use a product that is known as a soot sponge. This is a sponge that has been designed to be used dry. It has been chemically treated so that it absorbs soot and other dirt into its pores. It can be cleaned, once it is completely dirty, by shaving off the outer layer of the sponge revealing a clean surface to continue the soot removal. The sponge is meant to be used by blotting at the soot. Remember, never rub the soot as it will only spread it and make things worse.
When the soot removal has cleaned up all of the loose soot and it is no longer possible to continue effectively with the dry methods, it is time to move to a liquid cleaning method. An effective way to complete the soot removal from bricks is to make up a weak solution of citrus cleaner mixed with water and scrub with a stiff scrubbing brush. The bricks should be scrubbed vigorously to remove all of the residual soot. When this scrubbing is completed the bricks should then be wiped dry with a clean cloth.
All of the soot removal should be done after laying down some newspaper or drop cloths to protect the floor.
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